Sustainability, seasonality and simplicity are at the heart of a flurry of new London restaurants opening this winter. From ‘whole-cycle’ Kiwi cafes to a revived Edwardian launderette, we’ve picked out a handful of new openings where you can beat the January blues with a hearty meal – and a dose of good design.
Ozone, Bethnal Green
Basking in a renovated warehouse across the canal from Broadway Market, the new eatery, retail space and roastery from Kiwi coffee specialists Ozone is steeped in sustainability. It features a hearty ‘whole-cycle’ menu, furniture by Snøhetta (made with 100% recycled plastic recovered from Norway’s fishing industry) and coffee grounds recycled in collaboration with local skincare brand MontaMonta. Settle into an airy booth with a bowl of wild mushroom pappardelle and a tumbler of Cold Drip Negroni.
Trivet, London Bridge
Epitomised by the warmth, tradition and integrity of an age-old cooking utensil, Trivet is the vibrant new collaboration between chef Jonny Lake and sommelier Isa Bal, who spent 12 years together at the Fat Duck. Functional, Nordic design by Derin Yesil harmonises natural textures of wood, brushed and polished stucco, illuminated with metalwork by Somerset blacksmith Alex Pole and characterful illustrations by Merve Atilgan.
Cafe Murano, Bermondsey
Carrying the torch for Italian cuisine on the former site of Zucca, Angela Hartnett’s new Bermondsey spot espouses her timeless regional cooking with all of the panache of a younger sister restaurant. Elegant timber panelling and Italian marble jostle with raw concrete walls and terrazzo countertops, whilst fresh pasta is rolled in the window.
Wilder Boundary, Shoreditch
A double-height crypt-like space beneath Boundary in Shoreditch is the setting for chef Richard McLellan and Sir Terence Conran’s study in sustainable cooking and conscious design. Clay walls belie an ancient rendering technique, furniture is in ash (with tables from Jan Hendzel and chairs Carl Hansen & Son), stoneware ceramics hail from Bow by maker Ned Davies, whilst Worm’s otherworldly foliage installations weave cast-off vegetation from Conran’s Barton Estate, also the source of the kitchen’s produce.
The Laundry in Brixton
The suds have all but dissolved from the former Edwardian laundry now that Melanie Brown and chef Dylan Cashman have entered the building, though heritage is not forgotten – with vintage interiors and a best-of-British menu. Mint green banquettes look out onto a floor-to-ceiling wine cellar, whilst the south-facing terrace sees the world of Brixton go by – with a chilled glass of Sauvignon you can fool yourself you’re on the Parisian left bank.
26 Grains of Stoney Street, Borough Market
Alex Hely-Hutchinson’s homely, provenance-led cooking has expanded from Neal’s Yard to a second outpost at Borough Market, in a space crafted by design studio Block1. Contemporary wooden furnishings, larder shelves laden with seasonal produce and a window-hatch counter for takeaway treats by Yardam’s Henrietta Inman encapsulate Stoney Street’s wholesome offering.