If the French can be snobbish when it comes to food, they do make concessions for genres outside their brand, as it were. In the heart of Saint-Germain on the Rive Gauche in Paris, Cherry borrows from Italian trattoria menus and serves the classics in a low-lit New York boîte. The Paris-based Indie restaurant group, who reproduced the concept after a successful launch last year in Saint-Tropez, hopes the quintessentially germanopratin location, between Les Deux Magots and Rue du Four, will help it hit the sweet spot for Parisians.

Interiors by New Yorker Sarita Posada bring retro Italo-American tropes up to the moment. Amid red-velvet curtains and a sleek mahogany envelope, banquettes are tailored around veiny marble tables with white tablecloths, set with retro red-banded bistro plates. The glistening brass-rail bar is lamp-lit to make everyone look their best when handed their Negroni. The cosy ambience suggests a jazz bar tucked away in Brooklyn, though hip-hop takes over the sound system in the wee hours.

Chef Oscar Aviles Santana toes the line with recettes Scorsesiennes — familiar dishes like veal meatballs and pasta alla vodka with a New York-aise Caesar salad side, heavy on the parmesan. It all goes down a charm in the land of Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir.

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