A train station platform was turned into a runway, a maze was hung from a ceiling and cubist trees sprouted from the ground in Milan this week – all in the name of fashion. Here we bring you the best show spectacles from the SS 2016 programme.
Gucci
For his S/S 2016 collection, Gucci’s Alessandro Michele was inspired by what Situationists call the dérive: the act of crossing and exploring urban spaces, where paths take shape according to the stimuli of the city. ‘These paths push toward the unknown and contemplate the possibility of getting lost as an opportunity for learning and discovery,’ he said. Michele’s urban adventure trail led to the former railway station, Scalo Farini, where a platform got the Gucci treatment. Serpents snaked their way across the floral runway.
Prada
Architecture firm OMA’s research arm AMO suspended polycarbonate and fibreglass panels from the ceiling of its industrial venue. Conceived as an ‘indefinite hangar’, the maze-like installation played with perceptions of space. ‘Iridescent lights shine through the ceiling highlighting the defined geometries of its modules,’ AMO explains. ‘The wall, floor and seats, covered in concrete, emerge as a remnant, disturbing the boundaries between seating and catwalk.’
Fendi
A thicket of cubist trees served as the backdrop to Fendi’s SS 2016 show.
Marni
Abstract architectural forms lent Marni’s show space a Brutalist feel, reminding us of Assemble collective’s Brutalist Playground over in London.
Jil Sander
Jil Sander’s show space was a calming oasis for weary show-goers, with gardens sprouting from its crisp, white catwalk.
Peuterey
The recently restored vineyard of Leonardo da Vinci at Casa degli Atellani played host to Peuterey’s SS 2016 show. Sculptor and set designer Edoardo Tresoldi created this installation to complement the historic surroundings.
Sportmax
Italian design studio Formafantasma created an abstract mise en scène inside the Palazzo delle Poste, designed by Luigi Broggi. It took cues from Russian Cubo-Futurism for its contemporary intervention, incorporating terracotta and pvc films.
Roberto Cavalli
The column-lined courtyard of Milan’s 17th Palazzo del Senato was given a contemporary update with scaffolding and a panelled ceiling, courtesy of production company Bureau Betak.
