Kim Jones swapped doric columns and mesh architecture for swooping brutalist arches at his Fendi AW22/23 show in Milan, which dipped into the brand’s archive and featured an austere set designed by Bureau Betak.

Jones referenced Karl Lagerfeld’s iconic SS 1986 and AW 2000 collections for his Fendi presentations, with models traversing a simple but dramatic all-grey catwalk crowned by sci-fi arches set aglow by a pulsing light display.

 

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Lagerfeld’s 1986 collection was heavily influenced by Memphis design, while his 2000 ensemble embraced shimmering chiffons and soft, flowing fabrics in feminine colours. Jones leans into both, tipping his hat to postmodernism while reimagining angular silhouettes through a contemporary lens, and contrasting ruffled chiffons with sharp tailoring – a juxtaposition heightened by the starkness of Bureau Betak’s backdrop.

 

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