Es Devlin builds an otherworldly portal for Saint Laurent’s desert SS23 show

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An ethereal halo backdropped Saint Laurent’s SS23 show in the Agafay Desert, outside Marrakech, conjured by set designer Es Devlin – and inspired by Paul Bowles’ novel, The Sheltering Sky.

The 1949 book chronicles the adventures of three American travellers adrift in North Africa following World War Two and their existential journey as they peel back layers of their psyche.

Saint Laurent’s creative director Anthony Vaccarello drew inspiration from the novel for his collection of quintessential tuxedo suits and billowing silhouettes. Devlin’s otherworldly set design seems to riff on the titular reference in the novel, where Bowles writes: ‘A black star appears, a point of darkness in the night sky’s clarity. Point of darkness and gateway to repose. Reach out, pierce the fine fabric of the sheltering sky, take repose.’

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Moon-like mountains backdropped the tilting gateway, which hovered above a reflecting pool, emitting a low glow that amplified the mysticism of the setting.

The fashion house billed the production as carbon neutral, stating: ‘The event’s carbon footprint is calculated and all greenhouse gas emissions are offset through verified REDD+ projects, which not only conserve critical forests and biodiversity but also support the livelihoods of local communities.’

[h/t Harper’s Baazar]