Valletta, the capital of Malta, is a UNESCO World Heritage city steeped in layers of history accumulated from centuries of occupation – from the Phoenicians in the 8th century to the Romans, Arabs to the Normans, from the international Knights of St John to the Ottoman Turks, Napoleon and finally the British of which it was a colony until 1964. While Malta has garnered a reputation for tourism akin to Magaluf or Mykonos, more recently, it’s known for its burgeoning Michelin-starred restaurants. With the opening of the upcoming Malta International Contemporary Art Space (MICAS) and next year’s inaugural Malta Art Biennale 2024, its cultural and creative scene is one to watch.
Malta’s culture and creativity are notable for its combination of cross-cultural influence, from Arabic to Italian, and its many festivals and carnivals rich with colourful ceremonial textiles and traditional music mostly connected to the Roman Catholic religious calendar. The emerging contemporary scene, however, is rooted in the growth of a new creative infrastructure of physical spaces separate from traditional forms of culture, where new ideas and methods can gain a foothold and a community home – some of which you will discover here below.
Presently, the Malta Pavilion occupies the courtyard of Somerset House for the London Design Biennale until 25 June 2023. The timber labyrinth of purple fabric and interactive artworks is inspired by the purple dye used by the Phoenicians and Malta’s medieval architecture.
We spoke to the pavilion’s creative team, fashion designer Luke Azzopardi, artist Trevor Borg and architects Matthew Joseph Casha and Alessia Deguara to get their insights into the key creative hotspots to visit in and around Valletta.
Spazju Kreattiv
Photography: Harriet Thorpe
Photography: Harriet Thorpe
To centre yourself in Malta’s creative scene, visit Spazju Kreattiv, a hub for the arts inside a 16th-century fort that comprises an exhibition space, theatre, arthouse cinema, studios and workshops. It hosts over 500 events annually, from music to performance, appealing to all tastes and interests. On entering Spazju Kreattiv from its main entrance close to Valetta’s City Gate – transformed by Renzo Piano in 2015 into a modern public space – visitors will discover a characterful exhibition space built into the storied stone walls of the fort of St James Cavalier.
Yet, on venturing further inside, the gallery opens into a dynamic postmodern atrium designed by Maltese architect Richard England, who studied architecture in Malta and Milan and worked under Gio Ponti. Artist Trevor Borg has exhibited at Spazju Kreattiv. He sees it as a vital hub for the growth and development of Maltese artists at all stages of their careers – everything from graduate shows, artists-in-residence and established international artists can be seen across its multiple gallery spaces.
Spazju Kreattiv, Pjazza Kastilja Pope Pius V Street Il-Belt Valletta, VLT 1030
National Museum of Archaeology
Malta is heaving with megalithic monuments, such as the Ġgantija temple complex on Gozo, built between c3600 and c3200 BC. Many of these sites – as well as the rocky landscape and captivating medieval walled cities (such as Mdina, located close to Valletta) – have attracted blockbusters film and TV productions such as Gladiator, Troy, Jurassic Park and Game of Thrones and are activated by contemporary events hosted by Heritage Malta such as cinematic sunset tours. These cinematic connections make the National Museum of Archaeology a good place to start exploring the archipelago. It exhibits artefacts from Malta’s Neolithic period (5900-2500BC) up until the early Phoenician period (8th – 6th Century BC) with information on how the megaliths were constructed and how the Phoenicians made purple dye for textiles from ‘milking’ sea snails. A highlight of the museum is the building in which it is situated – the Baroque Auberge de Provençe, built in 1571 during the time of the Knights of St John. Its Gran Salon, an intricately decoratively painted hall, dates from the 1800s.
National Museum of Archaeology, Republic Street, Valletta
Villa Bologna Pottery
Located just outside Valletta in the village of Attard, on the grounds of the Baroque 18th century Villa Bologna, this joyful pottery is making an international name for its colourful, patterned ceramics. It was founded in 1924 by the influential Strickland family, owners of the nearby (and original) Corinthia Palace Hotel, now a global brand. After the workshop was bombed during WWII, Cecilia de Trafford, daughter of Sir Gerald Strickland (former Prime Minister of Malta), revived it with the help of British ceramicists Charles Bone and Shelia Mitchell and a team of skilled local artists. Now helmed by British-Maltese couple Sophie and Rowley Edwards, they have embraced its history while bringing it into the present with a new era of motifs inspired by the island, from dolphins and fish to pineapples and palm trees. The team of four painters have continued their employment – Ramona has worked there for 27 years – and Sophie wants to ensure that these skills pass to future generations.
Villa Bologna has just launched a new restaurant with a seasonal menu derived from their vegetable garden and combined with Italian and Maltese wines. A relaxed day trip to the picturesque village of Attard could combine an afternoon at Villa Bologna Pottery and restaurant with a walk in the Sant’Anton Gardens, known for its peacocks.
Villa Bologna Pottery, 30 Triq San Anton, Attard, ATD 1282
Valletta Design Cluster
This co-working and makers studio complex based in a former 17th-century abattoir has a public events programme and rooftop garden – one of the few green spaces in Valletta other than the Upper and Lower Barrakka Gardens. The Design Cluster opened in 2021 and is the result of a clever renovation and restoration by local architect Amanda De Giovanni – her challenge was to retain the old buildings (which, after the abattoir closed, were occupied by small businesses such as cotton-making before being abandoned in the 1990s to squatters) while creating a place for a new creative community to work and share ideas and resources. The open-air street has been covered to create a social atrium, and existing spaces have found appropriate new uses; there’s a test kitchen, workshops with tools for everything from woodworking and 3d printing, studios for individuals and groups and meeting rooms. The highlight is the award-winning public roof garden by Japanese landscape architect Tetsuo Kondo. Its planting has been designed sustainably for the hot climate, and its terraces place visitors amid Valletta’s UNESCO-protected architecture – with a spectacular view of the Palace of the Archbishop. Drop in for some downtime or visit one of its events, such as a food festival or open-air cinema.
Valletta Design Cluster, 25 Bull Street Il-Belt, Valletta, VLT 1570
Il-lokal
This concept shop (meaning ‘the local’ in Maltese) makes buying a well-designed and locally-made souvenir from Malta easy. Il-Lokal is an entry point into what local creatives are designing now, from jewellery to sustainable candles; prints by Farrad Waħdieni, illustrated cards by Pocket Sandwich Studio; ceramics by Tiziana Schembri, or even an anthology of Maltese writing from Praspar Press – and much more.
‘The Maltese craft and design scene is booming right now, and with that level of energy, the inspiration goes far beyond the traditional motifs,’ says founder Karolina Rostkowska who moved to Malta from Poland in 2017. It all started with an Instagram account, where she shared mini portfolios of local creators, then it became an online shop in 2020, quickly followed by il-lokal’s physical shop less than a year later.
She’s collaborated with over 80 Maltese and Malta-based makers, artists and designers to date, including notably Luke Caruana and Nigel Anastasi from the graphic design studio 2point3; artist and architect Tom Van Malderen; and vintage clothing specialist Rowena Farrugia – who have all contributed to the vision of il-lokal. Look out for il-lokal’s seasonal craft markets called ‘Nice Things Market’ and shop events, such as readings.
‘Supporting local means that you are supporting an individual,’ says Rostkowska.
il-lokal 203 Old Bakery Street, Valletta, Malta
Visitors can see the Malta Pavilion as part of the London Design Biennale at Somerset House until 25 June 2023. Tickets can be booked online.
