Photography courtesy Vale Palheiro.
Photography courtesy Vale Palheiro.
Photography courtesy Vale Palheiro.
Photography courtesy Vale Palheiro.
Photography courtesy Vale Palheiro.
Photography courtesy Vale Palheiro.
Photography courtesy Vale Palheiro.
Costa Vicentina Natural Park is a sun-baked, wind-swept slice of southern Portugal that has long since attracted hardy hikers but luxury lodging, not so much. The rugged terrain, one of the most ecologically protected regions on the continent, doesn’t seem the place for typical Algarve indulgence. A new ‘earth resort’ near the clifftop town of Aljezur has sidestepped the usual trappings of Portugal’s favourite coast. Founded by Pedro and Madalena Rutkowski, who moved into the area more than a decade ago, Vale Palheiro evolved gradually and with purpose, helped along by local craftspeople schooled in the region’s building traditions.
Madalena, a veteran architect, collaborated with Lisbon’s Arkstudio to create a destination that feels rooted in this 280-acre valley and the sliver of Aljezur River running alongside. Over time they designed 13 villas, suites and ‘casitas’ up the hillside, and had them built using the centuries-old taipa method, in which layers of earth are compressed by hand to form thick, breathable walls. The technique gives each building a sense of depth, character and heritage. ‘I wanted each space to feel grounded in its surroundings, using natural textures, earthy tones and handmade details,’ she says. Layouts encourage a fluidity between living areas, with large windows onto the land and transitional spaces that link indoors and out.
The variation in room sizes means a couple can stop in en route up the Rota Vicentina hiking trail or a family can book Casa Atlantica, a rambling self-catering villa with five ensuite bedrooms, infinity pool, outdoor kitchen, wine cellar and cinema. All rooms share a central restaurant and spa, plus two swimming pools, a working horse stable and small amphitheatre for open-air performances. Guests can ride, forage for supper, taste local wines or learn to cook a signature dish in the communal kitchen. The Rutkowskis have connections with surf instructors and beekeepers, so guests can engage in the local pastimes. And they’ll run group retreats from the communal lounge.
‘It’s for travellers seeking more than just luxury,’ says Pedro of the operation. ‘We want to provide an authentic experience, help nurture a connection to the lifestyle and showcase the best Aljezur has to offer.’
