Lisbon chef Kiko Martins has rescued the tired top floor of the El Corte Inglés department store with his new restaurant El Mar. The Rio native has orchestrated a maritime-themed overhaul of the sunny rooftop dining room, with a menu of fresh shellfish and interiors by the Spanish practice Cateto Cateto.

Creative director Alejandro Cateto responded to the brief with an exuberant space that evokes sunlight, sailing and the tiled surfaces around Portugal and Brazil. He’s wrapped the space in a warm wooden envelope reminiscent of teak ship cabins and laid down hundreds of trompe l’oeil tiles that resemble schools of tropical fish. Retro patterns on the tables and seat cushions give off a balmy, beachy vibe.

The open kitchen has a sit-up lunch counter demarcated by a glossy blue-tiled bar and a valance of fisherman’s netting. And sailboat maquettes are hoisted throughout the space to offer wisps of privacy. For lighting, Cateto chose the delightful Dipping Light pendants by Spanish manufacturer Marset, and suspended them from delicate winches that resemble fishing rods.

The restaurant benefits from a wraparound terrace and seventh-storey views over the art deco Bairro Azul neighbourhood.

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