Toronto returns to cake and coffee in a sculptural new patisserie

The arrival of Amadeus Patisserie et Boulangierie to a busy corner of downtown Toronto marks a revival of sorts for the dessert industry, thanks to a sober-curious return to coffee and conversation. The family-run patisserie is the ideal candidate too, with its Parisian gateaux and Eastern European pastries, presented in innovative styles and layers of glazing.

To design a tempting new eat-in bakery for the operation, owner Lior Aronovich tapped Odami, a local studio run by Spanish architect Aránzazu González Bernardo and Canadian designer Michael Fohring. The practice responded with a sculptural space in a palette of floury whites, moulded into an organic form. As a counterpoint to the real estate — a contemporary glass-and-steel building — they designed a beautiful confection of a ceiling, with curves that melt over the walls, forming a canopy over the diners.

Photography: John Alunan

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‘The expression of the walls becoming the ceiling is, for us, a testament to what you can do with space itself, apart from finishes and materials,’ say the principals. ‘The lines and curves unfold intuitively as you move around them, creating moments that need to be occupied to be fully experienced.’

The team sourced elevated materials as a calm counterpoint to the baking action behind the scenes. The miniature pot lights shine like diamonds. The grand L-shaped pastry bar is composed of variegated pink-toned marble. It runs between the shop’s two entrances, on either side of the 200-square-metre space, and can be seen in full from the pavement outside. Custom millwork is in white oak, and the barely-there furnishings are made from bleached ash and fluted metal.

‘The beautiful thing about architecture is that it doesn’t need to be noticed to be experienced,’ say the designers. ‘Walking into Amadeus, the pastries call out to you immediately. The ceiling doesn’t compete for attention, and yet, you feel it strongly when you’re in the space.’