Brass, the latest venture from Nick Hatsatouris and celebrated chefs Jeremiah Stone and Fabian von Hauske Valtierra, brings the golden age of Manhattan dining back to life within the historic Evelyn Hotel.
This Nomad restaurant is the sibling of Tusk, a winter opening that was named one of the top 42 bars in the US by Esquire. Brass anchors the Evelyn Hotel, taking over its ground floor and mezzanine with sumptuous interiors crafted by Islyn Studios.
The Evelyn, built circa 1903 in a blend of Art Deco and Beaux-Arts styles, showcases these architectural features within its 70-cover dining room. At the turn of the 20th century–the tipping point between the Gilded Age and the Progressive Era in the US–grand dining rooms were the epicentres of social life, a status they maintained well into the mid-century. Islyn’s designs take inspiration from the 1960s and 70s, using a golden colour palette and giant, abstract figurative murals by Californian artist Jessalyn Brooks.
At the heart of the space is an antique piano, sourced from a church in Atlanta, installed beneath the giant skylight, an original feature of the building. This piano references the city’s iconic supper clubs and the restaurant’s proximity to Tin Pan Alley, a hub for musicians in the 1920s. Large booths, upholstered in deep burgundy velvet, are around the edge of the dining room.
Smaller tables surround the piano, and floral chandeliers enhance the vintage atmosphere, as do the large palm fronds scattered throughout the space in glass vases.
The menu by chefs Jeremiah Stone and Fabian von Hauske Valtierra highlights the multicultural fabric of New York City, taking classic dishes and giving them a modern twist. Think moules frites with marinated mussels on chickpea fries, ruby red prawn tartare, and chicken roulade. For dessert, there’s the playful banana spliterole. And behind the bar, Tristan Brunel’s offerings include ‘Two Sippers’ (small pours) like Bright Lady Citrus (fennel, yuzu olive oil) and Brassy Bramble (basil, black pepper, bergamot, cassis).
