London's Somerset House gets a much-needed café

Occupying nearly 4.5 prime acres overlooking the Thames, Somerset House is undeniably one of London’s best architectural treasures. The vast 18th-century complex was underutilised for decades before being redefined in recent years as an innovation hub for designers and makers, offering studios, workshops, tech labs, and exhibition space for annual fairs. Its public access, however, can be a bit confusing, tied to periodic festivals and events.

Enter Café Petiole, a delightful new public destination in the South Wing. Headed by chef Rishim Sachdeva of the successful, Oxford Circus restaurant, the ‘(mostly) vegan’ café serves as a bountiful showcase for seasonal produce, prepared lovingly and served with ‘home condiments’ like ‘white bean spread’ and ‘Chinatown soy glaze’. Showstoppers are the fresh, savoury baked goods by head of pastry Tarryn Williams. As easy to pack-and-go as to stay and savour, they include tomato galettes, tarts, filo rolls and a Basque cheesecake with berry marmalade that will surely bring customers nosing in from the Thames path.

Petriole’s nostalgia-rich interiors are also a treat. Lauded with Wes Anderson adjectives, the patchwork of blue, yellow and Pepto pink was pulled together by boutique design studio Duelle, led by Micaela Nardella and Melanie Liaw. Concocting high-grade, bespoke Coat Paints for the palette, they managed to create an environment that neutralises grey weather and underscores the spring colours inherent in every dish. Handcrafted paper pendant lights by Colin Chetwood help to keep things cheery. Blue ceilings and butter-yellow walls highlight the original cornicing and trims.

While a daytime spot, Petiole nonetheless serves low-intervention European wines on tap alongside vegan juices and kombucha. Visitors can access the London café from the great Edmond J Safra Fountain Court.